Thao Vu - Design in Global Culture 2015: Ulaanbatar/ Mongolia

After living Ulaanbaatar about 3 months, I have an eye closer to the life of local people.

Ulaanbaatar, also known as Ulan-Bator, formerly Orgoo, is the capital of Mongolia, located on the Tuul River in north central Mongolia and surrounded by majestic mountains. The combination of these pine covered mountains, wide boulevards, vast public squares and parks give the city a feeling of spaciousness, while the ger communities, Buddhist temples, and bustling marketplaces give it rustic charm.

Lifestyle:

Nowhere in the world is there a city of such rich contrasts. In the uniqueness, which is Ulaanbaatar, ancient nomadic culture peacefully coexists with the dynamic changes of modern society. On the streets of this capital city, you will pass nomads in traditional dress as well as elegantly attired business people. The main places to visit include Suhbaatar Square, Gandan Monastery, National History Museum, the Museum of Mongolian customs and the Bogd Khaan Winter Palace Museum.

Mostly described, as sunny, peaceful and open, Ulaanbaatar is a city of contrast where modern life comfortably blends with Mongolian traditional lifestyle. Wide streets are flocked by modern cars, while horsemen and cattle are still common scene. Though modern style buildings characterize the city center, visitors arriving either from the Buyant-Uhaa airport or by train to the main railway would not fail to notice thousands of traditional Mongolian "Gers" in the vicinity, an area referred to by locals as "ger district".

Nomads of the Mongolian steppes live in white Gers, known as yurts in Turkish and Russian. When a couple is married, their family buys them the lattice work and the family band together to create the felt covering. The Gers is perfectly suited to the hard conditions of nomadic lifestyle, providing shelter from cold, wind, rain and sun. A central hearth heats the ger efficiently in winter months and is used to prepare food for family, friends and guests. In the desert where firewood is hard to come by, dry dung can be used as fuel for the hearth. In summer months, ventilation is provided by raising the outer covering allowing air to flow and maintain a cool climate.

Product:

Yaks: Meat, leather and milk. Dairy products such as yoghurt and cheese.

Sheep: Meat and milk, skins, wool and felt.

Goats: Mongolia is one of the world’s largest producers and exporters of cashmere.

Two humped Bactian camels: Meat, milk, wool, riding and transportation.

Language:

The most widely spoken language is Mongolian; however English and Russian are increasingly popular as second languages. There are many dialects of the Mongolian language, differing by region and tribe, but the official one is known as Khalkha.

Mongolian script is called Vaghintara and is written vertically, it is now taught at school from a very early age as an attempt to revive traditional heritage. In 1945, under the influence of Russia, Mongolia adopted Cyrillic to replace Latin script.

Mongolian language courses are few and far between but can be arranged in Ulaanbaatar. A number of free courses are also available on the internet, however these are largely untested.

Customs and Superstitions:

Mongolians traditionally were afraid of misfortunes and believe in a variety of good and bad omens. Misfortune might be attracted by talking about negative things, or by persons that are often talked about. They might also be sent by some malicious shaman or enraged by breaking some taboo, like stepping on a yurt's threshold, desecrating waters or mountains, The most endangered family members were children, and that's why they would sometimes be given non-names like Nergui or Enebish or boys would be dressed up as girls. Before going out at night, young children's foreheads are sometimes painted with charcoal or soot in order to deceive evil spirits that this is not a child but a rabbit with black hair on the forehead. For a child, the first big celebration is the first haircut, usually at an age between three and five. Birthdays were not celebrated in the old times, but these days, birthday parties are popular. Wedding ceremonies traditionally include the hand-over of a new ger to the marrying couple.

Politics:

Politics of Mongolia take place in a framework of a semi-presidential representative democratic republic, and of a multi-party system. Executive power is exercised by the government. Legislative power is vested in both the government and parliament. The Judiciary is independent of the executive and the legislature.

Transportation:

Buses are the main mode of public transportation in Ulan Bator. There is no set time table, but buses pass bus stops at approximately 15 minute intervals. Bus runs between 7:00am and 10:00pm.

There are 95 public transportation routes that are in service in UB with two categories as “in the city” and “city around”.

The public Transport Office regularly arranges the schedule for public transport buses due to increasing road flows and traffic overload.

About 1,500 Muni buses serve in 21 express-routes that connect the “Narantuul” market (one of the biggest open air markets in UB) to the farthest destination of the city where roads are unpaved and traffic flow is low.